DISCOVERING SOUTHWESTERN COLOMBIA: A UNIQUE BLEND OF THE ANDES AND THE AMAZON

Trip Report – February 2024 – by Felipe Villalobos

Day-1 February 25:

Our journey began in the city of Puerto Asís. After having lunch near the airport, we set out to explore the road leading from the city to the banks of the Putumayo River, an area known for hosting a wide variety of bird species. We were fortunate to encounter a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, whose call attracted a mixed flock composed of Turquoise Tanager, Masked Tityra, White-necked Jacobin, Purple Honeycreeper, and the rare Orange-fronted Plushcrown.

Afterward, we took a short walk that ended with a breathtaking view of the imposing Putumayo River, which flows through the rainforest. During the walk, we had a brief encounter with an Orange-baked Troupial and a Masked Crimson Tanager, and we observed a variety of aquatic bird species.

We then made our way to our first accommodation at the reserve, where a family of nocturnal monkeys awaited us in the hollow of a tree. We quietly observed and photographed them until the light faded. Dinner was at an excellent local seafood restaurant, and later, we ventured out for a brief exploration of the reserve. There, we spotted a small caiman and a scorpion, which our local guide illuminated with ultraviolet light, allowing us to see its exoskeleton and the animal’s reaction — truly incredible. Finally, we encountered a Common Potoo, which surprised us with its call in the middle of the night.

Day-2 February 26:

We started our day very early in the morning and headed to our new birding location, a nature reserve in the process of restoration. On the way there, we met our new local guide, Hernán, who would accompany us for the next four days of our adventure. He is a young man with an inspiring life story, having exchanged his life as a soldier for that of a birdwatcher — a living testament to the transition towards peace in Colombia.

We were welcomed by an indigenous farming family who prepared a delicious and generous homemade breakfast, giving us the energy we needed for the hike Hernán had planned for us. Among the highlights of our birdwatching were: the Amazonian Trogon, White-chinned Jacamar, Chestnut Woodpecker, Magpie Tanager, Yellow-bellied Dacnis, and Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlet.

We were forced to stop our birding due to the intensity of the rain, which led us to return to the main house, where we had lunch before heading to our next destination. After settling into the incredible rooms of the sustainable ecolodge in the heart of the jungle, we ended our day with an afternoon birding session, which culminated in the sighting of a pair of Cream-colored Woodpeckers. We were able to delight in observing them for a long time, savouring the last light of the day.

Day-3 February 27:

After a restful night, lulled by the sound of torrential rain, we woke up to a view of the forest’s breath, shrouded in mist, rising to the treetops. While our breakfast was being prepared, a group of Menden’s Titi Monkeys was feeding on fruit to start their day. Despite the rain that had fallen all night, it returned with even more intensity, so we had to take it slow in the morning. However, when the rain briefly stopped, we were fortunate enough to spot a truly rare bird for the area — the Pink-throated Becard, which had never been recorded here before.

The rest of the day saw steady rainfall, so bird activity was relatively low. Nevertheless, we enjoyed a walk in the rain that led us to a viewpoint where we could admire the Churumbelo mountain range. It was a sight that doesn’t happen every day: The Amazon rainforest meeting the Andes mountains — truly a breathtaking experience. From there, we returned to the lodge for lunch and began our journey towards Mocoa.

On our way to Mocoa, Hernán had planned a visit to a special spot where a family of the world’s smallest primate, the Pygmy Marmoset, resides. We were able to observe both adults and juveniles feeding on tree sap and took photos of them — it was truly amazing. From there, we continued to our next destination, a beautiful place with rooms nestled beside a riverside forest, where the sound of the river’s flow provides an extremely relaxing experience.

In the evening, after dinner, we went on a nearby trail in search of owls and successfully spotted the Mottled Owl. We then returned to rest, as the following day, we were headed for the “death trampoline.”

Day-4 February 28

This day started very early as we headed toward the road from Mocoa to Pasto, known as the “Death Trampoline” as it was called when this road was first opened in 1909 due to its narrow and steep path when it was first built. However, it has gradually gained a new name among the birding community: the “Bird Trampoline” or “Biodiversity Trampoline,” as it is one of the most productive hotspots in Colombia, home to birds considered jewels of the Colombian landscape.

After a long journey along the winding dirt road, covered by thick mist, we stopped at the highest point to admire the mountain’s slopes blending almost imperceptibly with the jungle. There, we took a small break before starting our slow descent in search of the magical encounters that awaited us.

The most notable sightings of the day were: Golden-headed Quetzal, Green-and-black Fruiteater, White-capped Tanager, Hooded Mountain Tanager, Yellow-throated Tanager, Orange-eared Tanager, Deep-blue Flowerpiercer, and the Blue-browed Tanager. After a full day of birdwatching on the “Biodiversity Trampoline,” we arrived exhausted to rest and recharge for the following day.

Day-5 February 29

In the morning, we set out in search of the elusive Gilded Barbet, which we were able to briefly observe along the trail near Hernán’s house. However, they were too high in the canopy to be photographed. From there, we began our journey toward Palestina, Huila, but not before stopping at a wonderful reserve and family-run business where we observed a female Wire-crested Thorntail feeding on nectar from the purple verbena flowers in the garden, accompanied by the magnificent Golden-tailed Sapphire that adorned the surroundings of the house.

We had the opportunity to observe several tanagers again and improve some photos while our lunch was being prepared. A Saccopteryx picuiet visited us, perched near the table where we were enjoying our delicious homemade meal.

From there, we embarked on our long journey to a paradisiacal lodge, where we would spend the next two nights.

We arrived in the afternoon at this wonderful and magical place, where we enjoyed watching multiple species at the hummingbird and tanager feeders while sipping a cup of organic coffee, produced right there. We had the opportunity to observe the captivating Golden-eared Tanager, which visits the banana feeders in the backyard of a spectacular house built with bamboo. After enjoying a wonderful dinner, we prepared to rest, full of excitement for what the next day would bring.

Day-6 March 1

Early in the day, we took a jeep that drove us to higher altitudes as the sun rose and the birds began to sing. Without having breakfast, we made our way to the first hide, where we patiently waited for the arrival of the White-bellied Antpitta. After a few minutes, it came to have its nutritious breakfast of worms, accompanied by a Chestnut Wood Quail.

From there, we moved to a different hide to wait for the Hooded Antpitta, known as “Rob,” which comes every day to have its first meal of the day. This time, we had to be a bit more patient, but eventually, it arrived, performing a little dance before getting close enough to pose for us, allowing us to capture an excellent photo.

Once the Antpitta mission was accomplished, we relaxed with some coffee and breakfast while enjoying the hummingbird feeders, placed in the best location and light for fantastic photos. After finishing our breakfast, Luis, our local guide, had a surprise prepared for us an encounter with the Golden-winged Manakin, the cherry on top of a successful morning of birdwatching. In the afternoon, we weren’t very lucky as we had heavy rain, but we were still able to enjoy the feeders, making the most of every opportunity to capture great shots.

Day-7 March 2

The rain did not stop throughout the night and into part of the morning, so we decided to take it easy. Once the rain eased up, we took a brief walk around the lodge, learning about the history of the place from one of its owners, Michael. We also learned about the sustainability and conservation efforts being carried out there — a truly admirable story. After this brief tour, during which we saw only a few things, the rain returned, forcing us to seek shelter. We enjoyed lunch, and finally, the weather improved enough for us to go out and explore. We made our way to a tower at the top of the mountain, passing several coffee and dragon fruit farms along the way. After climbing several levels of the tower, we were greeted with an incredible landscape that made us realize the unique geographical position we were in, as we could admire the Colombian Massif in all its splendour, accompanied by mixed flocks decorating the forest canopy.

We waited until sunset, taking full advantage of the golden hour for photography, capturing some fantastic shots of colourful tanagers. We then returned to the lodge, bringing our visit to a close with a wonderful final dinner.

Day-8 March 3

Very early in the morning, we had our last breakfast at this lodge: A typical Colombian calentado, a hearty dish that would give us the energy we needed for our journey across the Puracé Páramo. After several hours of driving, we arrived in the town of Puracé, where we had lunch and met our local guide, Fernando. He took us on a tour of the town, sharing insights into the cultural context of the Andean peoples and their cosmogony. Puracé is the home of the condor, a sacred animal for the indigenous cultures of the Andes.

After the cultural tour, we visited the San Antonio waterfall, which emitted a sulphurous scent as it flowed through an old sulphur mine. We observed birds such as the Chestnut-bellied Chat-Tyrant, Cinerous Conebill, Blue-capped Tanager, and Blue-and-black Tanager. After visiting the waterfall, Fernando took us to a place where he referred to “his daughter,” a beautiful Chestnut-crowned Antpitta. She arrived to take the worms her “human father” had for her dinner.

After arranging the details for the next day’s ascent to the Condor Rock, we set off for the historic and colonial city of Popayán, known as “The White City.” The city is famous for its stunning colonial architecture, particularly in the historic center. We checked into a magnificent hotel and ended the day with a delicious dinner at one of the city’s best pizzerias.